Wanderlust – my crazy travels, Part 4

May 2017 -May 2018

From May , 2017 I was only working in KIMEP University, Almaty, during Spring semesters (January to May). So I had six months off from May 2017-December 2017 and May 2018-December 2018. The travel frenzy got more intense!

May 2017 – Frankfurt for a few days

June 1– Arrived at Seattle and got on a Celebrity Solstice cruise to Alaska – on my bucket list!

Rest of June, 2017 – Lawrence, Kansas . I had to send my passport by mail to the Chinese embassy in Chicago to get a tourist visa to China. It took more than three weeks. Meanwhile I waited in Lawrence visiting old friends.

July 2017, Berlin and Magdeburg, Germany, to visit my erstwhile colleague , Dr. Naqvi and his family. Then on to Stockholm, Sweden for a few days, and then to Talinn, Estonia for a few days, before returning to Kolkata

End of July 2017 – I am in china with my colleague from Kansas, Dr. Jianbo Zhang – we traveled in Beijing and in Hebei province – this was on my bucket list as well!

August 2017 – Went to Phnom Penh while coming back from China,, by this time I am hooked on Phnom Penh

Early December 2017 – Went to Phnom Penh again! This time stopped at Bangkok for a couple of days

Party Time, Phnom Penh

Went back to Almaty first week of January 2018 – Fortunately I was staying on Campus this year – my apartment was four minutes walk from my Department. February 2018 was the most brutal winter I have encountered – and I have seen a lot of snow and cold during the last forty years. During February 2018, the temperature was minus 30 consistently for about a week during the day. Classes were not canceled!!

March 2018 – only went to India during this break, I think!

My trip to Alaska, Part 2

Alaska Travel Part 2

Ports of Call on the Celebrity Solstice Cruise

As I am writing this in 2020, I recall fondly the small cities in Southwestern Alaska .  They used  to be quiet fishing  towns , with the exception of Juneau which used to be a sleepy state capital . Alaska’s total  population is less than  200K, so the state capital is not a very big deal – a medium sized city in contiguous USA has more than 200K residents. Juneau has only 30K people.

The Alaska Ferry  is the main  mode of  commuting  to these coastal cities, most of them do not have any access by road, although  they also have small airports as well.

Once the Alaska Cruises became popular, these cities now host   many humongous ships per day . Each ship disgorges from 1000 to 3000 passengers, who spend a few hours in these towns, sightseeing, shopping, eating  and just aimlessly walking around beside the harbor.

These little towns on the western coast of Alaska are beautiful.   They are right on the ocean, usually with a big harbor good for large ships. Behind the little town there are mountain ranges, and/ or dense forests and no human habitation for hundreds of miles.  So there are no roads to access the mainland on other side of the mountains.

Interestingly, some of these little towns were swamped by people in the mid 1800’s, people chasing gold landed here then went by foot or mule to the hinterlands in the Yukon territories.  Lawless and uncouth townships sprouted, most people spent countless days searching for gold , panning the rivers and ponds , a few lucky ones found large nuggets or plots of land with veins of gold.  It was a short lived time of prosperity for these little towns which worked as landing stations for the famous Yukon Gold Rush.  After that ended, the towns lived  in relative obscurity with fishing and canning for about a century. The folks that lived there are real hardy, the weather is brutal for about six months, and nasty for about four additional months. During two months of summer,  it rains most of the time and the temperature is from 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Juneau is one of these towns  – an exception because the state capital shifted there in 1906. The others with their romantic names,  Ketchikan, Skagway, Sitka,  Hoona, , Metkatla, Hydabug  and many others dot the coastline , the lucky (!) ones get  up to a million or more tourists  from Cruise ships per year. One of my American colleague’s sons that I have met as a teen , dropped out of mainstream USA, and lives in Hoona, Alaska nowadays !

As the cruise ships  got bigger (actually massive), summers  in these towns were transformed completely.

Ship Parking – Juneau!
Ship traffic jam!
Big ship entering little Juneau harbor

Everyday, starting around 8 am, the ships dock and discharge hordes of mainly elderly people.  Some stay in town,  snacking, lunching and shopping.  In a daring effort at vertical integration, the cruise ship companies have opened their own gift shops and restaurants in these towns. Yes, you can buy  Peruvian Alpaca  sweaters in Ketchikan, Alaska  at  exorbitant prices, or get  Swarovski crystals for your sweetheart at double the usual price at Juneau!! For the townspeople and some itinerant workers that come during the summer, it is their only chance to make a few bucks by selling pizza, sandwiches, coffee and souvenirs – they totally resent the encroachment from the shops owned by the Disney  or Celebrity cruises, although they welcome the tourists bought in by them.

For the more physically active folks there are lots of activities offered as day tours – they run from 50 to 500 dollars depending on the activities and the duration, This is my evaluation of these trips (according to my own preference)

1.     Native American cultural tour – mainly Tippis and totem poles and lectures from a guide. Go if you are really interested.

2.     City sightseeing and food tours – the historical sights in these cities are at best unremarkable and the food is way better in modern cruise ships and free too if you are on the cruise!!

3.      Hiking or biking tours – you will see wonderful scenery – land and mountains and oceans  – take the mild to moderate tours unless you are below forty and in great physical shape . If you are in great Physical shape, then you are rewarded with a spectacular trekking experience. But you are unlikely  to be on a cruise ship with that demographic – unless , of course you are on your honeymoon in which case you may have other pleasant activities in mind!!

Remember it rains frequently and hard and it is cold and windy during   summer.  There are occasional gorgeous days with sunshine though!

4.     Wildlife tours – mainly moose and elk. If you live in North America, you may have seen them already, occasionally you may see black bears, but unlikely during the day when these tours occur. Tons of horse flies, gnats,  mosquitoes and other insects inside the forests – and they bite hard!

5.     Glacier trips – yes!

Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau

6.     Whale-watching boat rides – yes!

They cost some real money!

7.     Train rides from Skagway through the rugged mountains – this track goes to the Yukon territories in Canada, originally  built during the gold rush era – a big yes!

 Our ship stopped first at Ketchikan (hard rain, did nothing),

Ketchikan – Ship parking

Ketchikan – I will smoke cannabis all day if I lived there!

Ketchikan, rain stopped for one minute!

Juneau (enjoyed the M glacier – but constant drizzle! )

Juneau
Juneau town square by the harbor

and finally Skagway ( a gorgeous sunny day, a wonderful train ride and a side trip to the Siberian Husky training Center for sled dogs). Three cities  on three different days.

Some affluent Mexican families were vacationing with us, I had a good time hanging out with the two boys in their late twenties on the Skagway trip. Also met two pairs of Indian old couples who have retired and traveling the world now.

The train ride from Skagway to the Yukon Territories.
One bright Sunny day in Skagway, Alaska (out of eight days)!
With Mexican Hombres
View from the train

Huskies in training for sleds, poor dogs were hot even at 80 F!!

Always wanted to do Alaska, I got it off my bucket list. On the way back, the ship stopped at Victoria, British Columbia, and I got a chance to see the beautiful Buchart gardens !!

The iconic Buchart Gardens in Victoria

Outstanding Buchart Gardens
Buchart Gardens in 1987, with my son who was three years old!

Some tips for cruising:

By all means, buy an insulated beverage container. In the buffet station on the ship, high quality coffee, tea, juices and soft drinks are free, whereas anywhere else on the ship a cup of coffee is $4.50, a coke is $3.50 and so on. Heck, buy three beverage containers and a shoulder bag and carry all your daily non-alcoholic drinks with you all over the ship and in your cabin too.

There is no weight restriction on your baggage, so if you want to look really good, bring all kinds of clothes and shoes with you. BTW, the formal night when everyone is supposed to dress up is kind of defunct because of all the old fogies who insist on wearing sweatpants everyday!

If you wanna drink a lot, bring two or three liters of alcohol or several six-packs of beer with you, it will save you a lot of money. Yes you can bring alcohol on board!

Swimming and watersports no good on Alaska cruises. There is one small heated covered indoor pool and sauna which is always very crowded. Other pools are uncovered and/or unheated, and the temperature outside is about 40 – 50 degrees F

Parties happen but most passengers are over 60/65

Remember, even with the special internet package, internet does not work well on the ship

Phone calls on your mobile are chargeable and expensive, so if you want to be a chatterbox, buy a cruise ship package from your phone carrier or be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars in a week.

You have an option to go to one of many sit down restaurants or to the huge buffet – all are free. but the restaurants will take your order for specific items and serve you only what you ordered. In the buffet , you are free to choose basically from the best multi-cuisine, multi nation food collection I have ever seen. Unless you and your spouse want to dress up and feel like being served by a liveried waitperson, there is absolutely no reason not to go to the buffet!!

Plan to diet while on the cruise – hahahah!

The crew members are generally very attractive and multi-lingual and fun to talk to, They will hang out with you if you ask them!. If you are attractive, they will flirt with you and maybe more (although strictly against regulations!!)

Bring Winter Jackets even in June, July and August, you will need them!!

Hopefully in a couple of years we will be able cruise like we used to!!

I leave you with spectacular views of the inside passage:

 

My Trip to Alaska, Part 1


My Travels: Alaska Part I

I have no literary talent whatsoever, just a lifetime of strange stuff, some not so pleasant, some unexpectedly delightful.

 I have lived in USA for about forty years. I visited many states, some numerous times over the years. Memories fade, photos get lost. I reveal my thoughts, my vices , and my personal life contemporaneously in these blogs. I will only use limited amounts of profanity, and will post no pics of naked or semi-naked women !!  Everything else here is real and honest.

ALASKA: Of course this one comes first! During my years at USA, I could never afford to go to Alaska.  Did not have the time or the money. I watched in awe all the travel videos, the magnificent mountains, the icebergs, the wildlife.

My last years as a professor in the university of Kansas were depressing, to say the least. Fortunately I was offered a job at an university in Kazakhstan, of all places, that I accepted in 2014. Suddenly, my financial problems were gone, I actually became relatively affluent!!

Every year, I started taking long vacations during the summer months. By 2017, I had enough money to splurge. I could not go to Alaska and drive through the state by myself. It is a huge state, I will have to drive alone several thousand miles to visit the sights. I opted for an eight day  cruise. Went all in, a deluxe cabin with a balcony all for myself. Cost a ton of money but  I could finally afford it.

I went from Almaty to Frankfurt. Rested there for two nights. Unlike other cities is Germany, Frankfurt is brand new, most of it anyway. I found it to be rather boring.  You get some German flavor near the train station – there were lots of streetside cafes and bars. I stayed in a hotel near the station. German food was disappointing, but I had the best baby squid  in my life at a Turkish place near the train station. A little bit of herbs and some butter, and it was heavenly!

I took a sightseeing tour mainly through modern Frankfurt, all steel and glass

A terrible cough ensued ,  aggravated by my smoking which stayed with me for months to come. I was Ok for the seven hour flight to NYC, but really miserable on the five hour flight to Seattle from NY.

Next morning I boarded the Celebrity Solstice.  The ship is huge, more than a thousand passengers , six floors.  Almost everyone was paired up, mainly senior citizens. There were a few couples on honeymoon or on fun trips. Most were white Americans, with a smattering of rich Mexican families taking family vacations. The passengers were old and mostly fat, the crew came from different parts of the world and were very lively. 

The restaurants had formal seating, but it was pointless for a single person to sit down for a meal. I chose the buffet and what a great choice it was! Unlike the cruise I took way back in 1990 in Florida, food choices have become spectacular in international cruises! There were numerous food stations in the buffet – continental food, American food, salads, chinese food, Japanese food, Mexican food, Indian food,  Middle Eastern food  – and of course Indian food was being cooked by Indian chefs, Chinese food by Chinese chefs and so on! It was essentially a food heaven!  I had fun mixing and matching, like beef stroganoff with naan bread,  oxtail soup with chinese noodles – you get the idea. I should have taken more pics, but here is one fourth of the dessert station for your perusal. In case you are not satisfied, there were fifteen kinds of icecream right next to it.  I suggest if you go on these cruises, fast for one month prior to departure! Everything in the buffet was free except alcohol.

Breakfast was healthy (haha), I had three types of fish every morning  – salmon, herring and mackerel, along with rolls. The amount fish I scarfed down every morning will probably cost about $25 in US restaurants. I finished off with puri and sabji of course!

This was my breakfast every morning. Did not go for eggs and pancakes

My cabin was fantastic. Every morning I woke up to something like this

Two seal pups on ice

Oh yes, it was cold! A few degrees above freezing even in June! And constant rain, and heavy winds! The swimming pool on the top deck was closed, the second deck had an unheated covered swimming area, that’s where one of the few smoking sections were.  In order to smoke, we had to wear a winter coat and brave some chilly wind! The third deck had a small heated swimming area, that was packed with people at all times.

As I said before, the ship was huge – filled up with lounges and restaurants and gift shops everywhere. The cruise line makes extra money by selling specialty drinks and beverages all over the ship. I did not fall for that except an occasional beer. On the third day, the sun came out and the top deck was open, it was still cold. I succumbed to having a huge crab fest  that cost some extra money.

As you can see, the crab leg was huge, about the size of my arm, and there were crab cakes  and crab chowder and hush puppies and some bread – everything was soaked with butter – that was an ordeal for my poor arteries. They used no spices whatsoever, my Indian soul craved some masala on the beautiful crab meat!

The top deck is practically empty because it was cold. I was one the brave souls to try the crab fest.

Two people on the deck besides me
Huge crab leg

Oh yes, I was lonely as hell, like for most of my life.  I was probably the only single person on the boat with about a thousand people! I managed to speak with some people in the smoking area.  Many were senior  citizens, some were continuously drunk with blurred speech and meaningless jabber.  There was the bald fat guy carrying a big bottle of vodka with his wife in tow, there were several elderly ladies with the ever present cocktails in their hands.  The lives they led were rather depressing. With enough money to their names, and the children grown, they did not have anything to keep them intellectually alive. They drifted from one cruise to another, drinking, eating and just hanging around.  There were some middle aged men who appeared to be interesting ,but  they were taking smoke breaks away from their families – they did not talk much.

On the ship, internet did not work very well, my internet package was a waste of money. Phone calls were expensive even with the package deals offered. It was surprising to see some people constantly talking on the phone spending hundreds of dollars for conversations that I think  did not involve lucrative business deals !

The crew consisted of young people, some very attractive,  from all over the world. I had fun startling the Indian guys with my Hindi (most people think I am Hispanic ), and  startling the East Europeans with my poor Russian that I learned in Kazakhstan.  Once, I got into a singing lounge which had  a smattering of old overweight retirees. A striking blonde in a gorgeous outfit was sitting on a stool in the middle, obviously she was going to sing a little later. As I entered she smiled at me which I thought initially was just an artificial greeting smile. But no, she was giving me the eyelash batting seductive deal !! I looked behind me, there was no one! Apparently I was the only decent looking man in the room (which really is sad). I went up and talked to her. She was a country music singer from  Georgia, possibly famous in her own circle. Her voice was melodic, I listened to her for a while. Later I saw her in the buffet because the crew members also dined there. I was tempted but she was way way above my league, and I was prudent enough not to make a fool of myself!

Romance on an Alaska cruise is unlikely, I heard that if you want to party hard, you need to go to Caribbean short cruises. There were teenage girls  presumably  granddaughters of senior citizens, all attractive young women were with partners, and there were spinsters roaming about in groups that I did not care for at all. There was actually an Emergency Room nurse that I met, she said she gets stressed out form working with trauma patients, and takes a cruise every couple of years to smoke and drink heavily. She was kind of attractive, but appeared to be looking for a serious relationship. I had a mistress in Kazakhstan (until 2019) who I think is stunning,  I was not into the nurse at all.  In any case, I was not looking for romance on this ship.

This was in Almaty where I was working in 2017!

I met three young men from a rich Mexican family that was taking a family vacation. Two were brothers and the other one was the husband of their sister. I hung out with them whenever I could. Their pics will come later.

The highlight of the trip was on the fourth day where the ship went inside a fjord barely wide enough for the ship to sail through.  This was  the famous Inside Passage! There were towering snow covered mountains right next to the ship and glaciers and waterfalls. Everyone was on the deck, transfixed by the scenery. A charming Southern lady took some photos of me.

Photos of the fjord:

This is it for now. Part 2 is coming up covering the ports of call

Many more Alaska photos and video on Flickr

Alaska June 2017