Mastan in El Dorado

Mastan in   El Dorado

This story is a little bit about child abuse, but it is more about an ordinary human being living his useless life.

It’s not that people have to get over childhood traumas with hard work, or by becoming famous, or by finding a meaningful relationship or by going to the right therapist. Sometimes stuff happens unexpectedly and randomly and works as a panacea. The apparently sleazy stuff is thus an integral part of the story.

Is it autobiographical? Well, I was never a student of pharmacy or chemistry!!

(“Mastan” is a pejorative term that means a bully or a ruffian, but with a bit of sarcasm, it may also refer to an alpha-male )

A while ago, in the fifties or the sixties, life was different in Kolkata suburbs. Sure, glamorous Park Street was only about thirty-five minutes away, if you could  hop on to one of those smoke-belching buses. But  right in your neighborhood,  you would find grazing water buffaloes beside dirt roads,  huge ponds,  fruit orchards and many empty fields for kids to play. There were also swarms of emaciated  beggars, specially in early autumn, tons of garbage  around open sewers,  and hordes of mangy hungry dogs that would chase  children after nightfall.  

Every few hours, radios would start blaring from the local Paan shops,  forcing you to listen to samachar (news) from Vividh  Bharti  followed by shrill Bollywood songs from their  tortured  speakers.  Apart from the radio, entertainment options were limited for kids. On the high end,  one could fight tooth and nail with the big boys for a cheap ticket in the brimming movie theaters.  On the low end,  one  could listen to “jatra” – a unique Bengali open air melodramatic performance attended by the  unwashed  and  the incredibly flatulent masses.

Overall though, it was not a bad place for kids. They played a lot everyday, sneaked  into the orchards , bribed the caretakers  to explore empty vacation homes, climbed trees and ate tropical fruits , swam in the ponds,  terrorized birds with their  slingshots  and  did not miss video games and  internet  chats even a single bit.

The Gods bullied Bishu right from the beginning.  Among a group of  lean, mean and swarthy Bengali boys,  Bishu stood out like a sore  thumb with his  chubby cheeks and  big fat lips.  

Soon nicknamed  Bhonda  (which basically translates into a “fat retarded slob”),  he was subject to friendly ribbing that soon escalated to vicious tormenting.

Gaadon, the chiseled athletic boy with a precocious  moustache,  was the local mastan. He   arranged various fun  activities for Bhonda –bashing. Under his supervision,  five or six boys pelted him with rotten mangoes that littered the grounds in the orchards – this game was called target-practice.  Bhonda had matching  black and blue bruises  after every trip to the mango garden.

Another more complicated  game,  called tagging,  was developed  by trial and error by Gaadon.  Bishu liked to take a shortcut across the big field  with the banyan tree in the middle.  Two boys, from two sides of the field,  would start running towards Bishu and smack him hard from the back, usually knocking him to the ground breathless. The winner was the first boy to get to him.

Bishu did not like tagging  much.

 Around the fifth time he was tagged, he got up and slapped Gaadon in the face.  A cool Gaadon  gripped  Bishu’s  testicles and kept on squeezing.

 Bishu could feel his unkempt sharp nails ripping through his pants and cutting into his flesh.  The exquisite pain froze him, speechless and motionless.

“Look!” Gaadon giggled as he released his grip and pointed Bishu’s condition to the other boy  “the gundoo is frozen.  Can’t even move!”

In a magnanimous gesture of forgiveness, Gaadon slapped Bishu lightly on the cheek,

“Don’t ever touch me again”, he smiled and walked away.

Later on, on the cricket field,  Bishu was booed off as some of his privates were hanging through the hole in his shorts.

At night, his mom chided him for ripping his pants.

Gaadon later boasted about his “ freezing” game and wanted to demonstrate in front of his friends.  Fortunately, Bishu was quick to retreat from his approach and Gaadon caught up with him only one other  time. No one else was around then, so Bishu suffered in shame alone.

An old bicycle that his uncle gave him on his fourteenth birthday was Bishu’s ticket to freedom. He became a loner, stopped playing all sports (he sucked anyways) and left his friends alone. He rode miles after miles, first in his neighborhood, then all over Kolkata and all the way to the nearby villages.  He didn’t build any social skills, but developed some formidable calf muscles over time.

Things became blurry in his late teenage years. The Naxalites  terrorized everyone first, then the police terrorized the Naxals and the youth in all Kolkata suburbs.  At the very end, the cops were rounding up young men at random and shooting them.  Every young man in Kolkata suburbs kept a very low profile, trying to be invisible.

It was  tough for educated young men back then. Bishu studied very hard and got a bachelor’s degree and an  M.Sc.  in chemistry, but missed getting a first class both times.  That shut him off from all competitive exams for civil service  and bank jobs. He taught High School and got paid six hundred  fifty measly  rupees every  month.

His big break came when Arjunkaka, a distant relative, called from America.

“You have a degree in chemistry?” He asked Bishu

“Why, yes, an M.Sc.  Are you offering me a job in America?” Bishu asked jokingly.

“Hell yeah” Arjunkaka was  very interested. “Get a diploma in Pharmaceutical Science.  As  soon as possible.  America  is going through a serious shortage of pharmacists and nurses. You can get a work permit right from Kolkata if you can qualify. This  window will close in a couple of years, so hurry up, OK?

For once  in his life, things went smoothly. For a chemistry graduate,  getting the pharmacy  diploma was a piece of cake.  He got his visa fast and Arjun uncle  graciously gave him a loan for his one-way ticket to America.

  On his maiden Pan Am flight to America, Bishu imbibed a substantial amount of alcohol, as opposed to the little Chhota pegs  that he had a few times before. He was hoping to get a nice buzz and some  nice dreams to tide him over the long journey.  A flurry of Bollywood maidens appeared,  soon to be replaced by a sneering Gaadon  and his jeering friends.

“Let’s freeze the idiot!” Gaadon screamed!

“Dear Gods!” Bishu said to himself “Get him out of my dreams, please!”

“Bon Voyage,”  giggled the Gods, as the plane soared through the skies.

El Dorado is a mythical place awash with gold and jewels  and   all  a man can ask for.

Bishu, our tormented soul, is  now  alone in a foreign land.

What does he have to do with El Dorado?

Let’s find out!

Bishu, our spineless hero,  escaped  the  post-Naxal slum of Calcutta and landed with a thud in USA in the early 1970’s.  The United States of America and Bishu shocked each other repeatedly during  their initial encounter.

After stunning  several prospective employers with his utterly unintelligible Indian accent, Bishu realized  that he cannot get a job as a pharmacist which involves active interaction with the customers, even though he  had a valid license. Nobody in America appeared to understand his English,  The best offer he received, and accepted, was that of a Pharmacy Assistant. It paid a little bit more than minimum wage and involved mainly stuffing pills in bottles and writing patients’ info on labels.

But this was still far better  than the 650 rupees he made as a schoolteacher. He lived in his very own small apartment, ate very good food once  he learned how to cook and even had an old car after a year.

His colleagues  were mainly  college students. His bosses, the pharmacists,  were all  younger than Bishu. 

Bishu was  too  shy  to socialize  with his mostly  young and female American colleagues, he would start shaking and stammering  in their close proximity.

But he would talk to Neeta Patel, one of the Gujju pharmacy assistants who had grown up in in a very conservative, religious and strictly  vegetarian family in America. Bishu was her boy toy and her secret rebellion.    

On Saturday mornings, Neeta would show up  in Bishu’s apartment, get rid of her oversize sweatshirt and loose jeans  and change into one of Bishu’s  T-shirts. They would lunch on some Barbeque  pork ribs or     hamburgers.  Afterwards, putting up her naked hairy legs on the coffee  table (her mom won’t let her shave!), she would open up a bottle of vodka or Jack Daniels. While sensuous Bollywood music played on the stereo, they would smoke Marlboros and get drunk together. After  a while, Neeta would take her shirt off and unzip Bishu’s pants. They would finally fall asleep together on the couch.

Around eight in the evening, Neeta would wake up, shower, put on her street clothes, chew a lot of elaichi and head home like a good little girl to join the family supper of poori  and saabji.

Yes, Bishu  lost his virginity  to a chubby and  plain  classic Gujju girl . She  told him she has been spending weekends like this with different boys since she was sixteen!

“ At some point of time, my dad  would give me away as a virgin to a fresh engineer from Gujarat” She once told Bishu,  still locked in his  embrace..

“How would you handle it?” He asked.

“With this, my dear.” She lifted up a  packet of tomato Ketchup that came with their take-out ribs.

Bishu frowned, then his eyes widened in sudden comprehension.

“You don’t say!”  He said, and they both burst out  in laughter, Neeta cradling his head on her  flabby and droopy  oversize breasts.

Gaadon would come back like an express train in his dreams after every  episode with Neeta.

“Even in America, you are riding a buffalo, you idiot!” He would taunt Bishu with his ever-present sneer!

After a few years, Bishu’s  horrible Kolkata accent improved enough so he finally snagged a real pharmacist’s job. He continued staying in his small place, but started sending some money home, and saving a lot of it, dreaming for the first time  about a wife and family.

Then he saw her. And her friend. Two young women, all dressed up, in a  beat up battered car, and a very loud sound system. Right in his parking lot. They moved in to an apartment on the other end of the complex. One of them had a small child.

In the drugstore where Bishu worked, the prescription drugs and the pharmacists worked behind the counters. But the rest of the store had a lot of beauty and health products, baby stuff and some soft drinks and snacks and all , and people would shop there just like in a supermarket.

He saw the pretty one shopping there. She was always dressed up and made up to the hilt, every part of her body was driving Bishu crazy. Apparently she saw him too.

A few days later, she spoke to him in the parking lot. She was not shy, at all.

“Hi, I am Misty. Who are you? Are you a pharmacist? “ She asked him

Bishu told her his name and he said he was a pharmacist and he saw her shopping at the drugstore several times

“Yes I go there often, Hey,  can you get me some Valium?” She had a seductive smile on her face. She did not waste time.

“No” Bishu laughed, “I will lose my job”

“How about those pain-pills?” Misty moved closer to Bishu, her  taut  breasts almost touching him.

“I will party with you if you get me some” she moved  one leg closer to touch his thigh.

“Nope” Bishu was persistent

“You  are no fun” she pouted, and smiled again “may be I can make you change your mind later”.

A few days later, he talked to both Laura and Misty. While Misty was slender and overbearingly cute, Laura had a very pretty face, big boobs and absolute thighs – Bishu  used to call them babymakers! Still stammering, he managed to invite them for a drink. They came, made some small talk, and had iced tea. He found out that Misty is only nineteen, but her daughter is four years old. In America, if you are an underage mother, which she was , having the baby at fifteen, the State keeps the baby under supervision until a Judge rules that the mother can have unconditional custody.  Laura was twenty years old. They both asked him for prescription drugs again.

He explained to them carefully that since he is a foreigner, if he gets caught stealing drugs, he will lose his job and his visa and then will get deported back to India. He was not sure the girls understood this  or they even cared. They kept on being friendly , teased him several times when he met them later, flashing cleavage, showing legs, the usual stuff – but Bishu was not going to give them Valium or anything else!

Then one day, Bishu noticed that the beat up car is gone, and so were the chicks. He heard that they went to live with Laura’s mom in Topeka.

About six weeks later, Bishu’s phone rang during early afternoon.

“Bishu, come and get us!  We are stuck in this goddamn town” It was Laura’s voice, frantic.

When the shrieks died  down, Bishu finally figured out  what the girls were  up to. Apparently, they had run away from Topeka to Wichita, a bigger city about one hundred miles south of  Topeka, because they were tired of working minimum wage jobs. In Wichita, they were both working in a bar, one as a cocktail waitress and another as a dancer.

They were doing good until yesterday, making and saving a lot of money, I guess doing a lot of cocaine too. Yesterday  morning the police appeared and accused misty of child endangerment and took her daughter away. In the evening Laura found that all their  savings that she hid in their luggage was stolen by another girl in the bar.

They started driving this morning to Topeka, but their car broke down half an hour out of Wichita. Their world had collapsed in three strokes of bad luck.  They came back to Wichita and now needed  a ride to go home. They were desperate, indeed.

Apparently, they called all their other friends, no one was gonna help them. Bishu left after work around 4 pm. Wichita was two and a half hours away. He found the girls  crying and swearing and smoking cigarettes continuously. Their whole lifestyle had  collapsed within the last two days. Bishu started with the girls towards Topeka around 10 pm at night.

As the highway turned sharply to the left, there was the sign “El Dorado, Kansas, 1 Mile. Population 4300”

“Take that exit, Bishu,” Laura said, “That’s where my car broke down yesterday. My car is in the impound garage there”.

Bishu was reluctant. “ your car is broken anyways. Why do we need to stop here in this town in the middle of nowhere”?

“No, please, all  of our clothes and shoes are in the car, a lot of them. We will pick them up tomorrow morning” Laura insisted.

It was 10:30 at night. They checked into the only Super 8 Motel in town. Strung out and high on cocaine, the girls wanted more of it. But the coke was gone. And  all their money was stolen, Misty also lost her daughter to the cops. The girls smoked marijuana joints and had access to the only other  thing available  that would please them. They wanted Bishu’s naked body.  All night long. In fact, they told him again and again that  Bishu was bigger and harder than many other men they had been with.  Bishu did  not know that! Now he did!

They went to the car impound next morning. Laura’s car was not drivable and was abandoned. Bishu transferred a carful of sexy outfits and high-heeled shoes to his car, loaded the bimbos up and dropped them at Laura’s mother’s home – she was not particularly pleased to see them.

After that night, the girls got kind of attached to Bishu. So was Bishu.  He bought them another old beat-up car. Every week, each of them will show up at separate times in that old car in his apartment. Sometimes both would show up with a fat marijuana   joint, and Bishu will get a lot of beer.

Bishu did not stammer any more in front of these girls. In fact he did not stammer in the proximity of any woman any more.

Bishu  ended up  buying a lot of  clothes and jewelry. And spent lots of money on them for the next couple of years.

In their own banal way, the girls gave Bishu a lifetime of carnal memories.

When I met Bishu, about  twelve   years later, he had pretty much recovered from his “chick-damage”.

His savings were back on track, he was the head pharmacist in a large  drugstore, and he  just  got married  to a desi girl who grew up in America.

For  some  reason, he wanted to talk to me about his past. Over a period  of two months, we met for dinner and a little booze several  times.  He told me his life story, starting from his childhood bullying.

His new  wife did not know any  of  this.

“Well..” I said, “El Dorado appears to  play  a significant  role  in your life.”

“No Kidding”   He  laughed “ I grew spikes in El Dorado”

“ Gaadon went away after I came back from El Dorado , never  to return.” He informed me

“Well, there are many ways to kill a cat, or a Gaadon,  so to speak.” I said

Bishu  giggled. He liked my remark.

“By the way, the girls have been gone for a while now, right, both of them?” I said.

He nodded

“But if  any of them’d  come back today,  you would leave your wife, in a minute, right?”

Bishu did not answer that. I did not want him to, anyways.

Wanderlust – my crazy travels, Part 3

Summer 2016 – Plans were altered midway through summer. From Almaty, I came to NYC and stayed for two days, then to Lawrence, Kansas for about one month.

Someone came to see me in Lawrence after sixteen years!

Afterwards, went to Halifax, Nova Scotia and Cape Bretton Island with my friends Swapan and Cecilia again. Came back to USA after three days in Toronto with my friend Tabla maestro Ashok.

While going to Duluth, Minnesota, to visit an ex-student, I was notified that my mom had passed away in India on July 11, 2016. I managed to get back to India on July 13 and performed her last rights.

The original plan was to visit several Scandinavian countries in July. The tickets were already bought and the hotels were paid for. So I decided to go to one of the countries, Norway, at the end of the month, instead of three as originally planned. Went to Oslo and Bergen for about a week, starting end of July 2016.

October 2016 – Phnom Penh, Cambodia

December2016/ January 2017 – During early December, my schedule permitted me to get three days off- so I went to visit Rajarshi again, this time in Dubai. Went to Kolkata during regular winter break.

February- March 2017 – Spring break came early this year. Went to kolkata and then to Taipei, Taiwan to visit my student, Dr. Wei-Shong Lin

During Fall 2017, I got a leave of absence, so essentially I was on a six month vacation starting from June 2017 to December 2017. For the next two and a half years, till March 2019, the traveling frenzy was turned up a notch!!

Traffic in India – Part I

Traffic in India  – part one

Traffic in India is insane, insanely hilarious, insanely annoying and insanely frustrating.

If you have not driven anything in your life, you will not fathom the  deep insanity of Indian traffic. A non-driver sees traffic  as a flow of  assorted vehicles , either smooth and orderly, or abrupt and noisy, or engrossed in snare and chaos. To him or her, the snare and chaos will appear to be the steady-state of Indian traffic.  However,  only a driver will understand the true terror and lawlessness that engulfs Indian traffic twenty-four hours a day  (yes even late at night!).

Even more amazing are the social norms about traffic held by drivers and non-drivers alike in India:

Drivers need to be smart and talented in the art of driving.

Any empty road surface is accessible to any vehicle on the road.

Complicity with all the traffic laws will endanger your life anyways, because others will be angry and destructive towards you.

Playing chicken is good, specially when you are plying a motorized vehicle!

Hit and run after any  accident is not necessarily  a criminal activity (well, it is, in every country of the world, including India – for even minor accidents –  punishable by jail time, severe penalties, and suspension of license – yes even in India!)

Equally amazing are the beliefs about traffic shared by drivers and non-drivers alike:

Traffic is more orderly in North America and Western Europe, anywhere else in the world it is similar to Traffic in India, only a tad more or less crazy!

(Fact: I have been to  countries like  Kazakhstan in Central  Asia, Thailand,  Cambodia  and Malaysia and Singapore in South East Asia,  Dubai and Oman  in the Middle East, and Japan and China and Hong  Kong in the  Far east, and believe me, traffic is not nearly as crazy as in India  – not even close! Assuming traffic is the same in the entire Indian subcontinent, it is crazy on an  elevated level in India and our neighbors)

Speed limits are only relevant for highways monitored by cameras only. If you own a motorcycle and firmly believe that you have a stupendous magnum penis, then you have the right to  drive at any speed in small side streets, terrorizing pedestrians and other traffic  as long as you use your horn frequently.  Such beastly behavior will impress your male friends and bring forth quasi-orgasmic approval from all the females who happen to witness this spectacle.

Right of way? WTF is that? A legal term enabling senior citizens and young women to move around as they please without getting mugged or raped?  A new brand of deodorant? A new dating app, perhaps?

Yield? What? Yield to what ? To whom? You mean to a VIP convoy? To a politician of the ruling party? To a Bollywood celebrity perhaps. Or, are you talking about yielding  to your spouse’s romantic advances? Oh  hell yeah,  it is a good idea to yield to an Ambulance because it will prevent ill people from dying on the way to the hospital.  Indians are slowly learning to yield occasionally to all kinds of emergency vehicles. Are there other traffic rules about “yield” ? You have to be freaking  kidding me!

And a case study!!

Let’s now do a case study of a quintessential Indian driver. His name is Ashok Dutta, my close friend. I am thankful for his habit of not reading  much of anything on the internet (or anywhere else – he is a talented tabla player) –so please don’t tell him about this blog!! The first time I got alarmed about him was actually in Toronto, Canada. He and I were walking around, not even driving,  in downtown Toronto, just wandering about.  In any downtown in North America, there are lots of crisscrossing streets and hence a traffic light every 50 meters or so. We were walking normally, until I saw Ashok getting excited.

“Let’s get this one, come on!” He said suddenly

“Get what?” I was clueless.

Turns out he was wanting me to walk faster so we can get step into the pedestrian crosswalk before the light changes. Every time we were stopping at an intersection, we would wait a maximum of 90 seconds or less before we crossed the street.  So the entire route involved waiting for the light at crosswalks for a total about 900 seconds which is fifteen minutes – at the most. After he dragged me through the sidewalk a couple of times forcing me to power walk so we can “get this one”, I explained to him that we have nowhere to go , we have all the time on our hands, and there are no hot chicks waiting for us in the guesthouse where we were staying!

The second time was even more alarming! I was driving my rental car around on the expressway in Toronto, Ashok was in the passenger seat.  There were large trucks on the rood as well. Several times when I was behind a truck, the following conversation would ensue:

A: Please get the truck.

Me: Overtake?

A: Yes, please.

Me: The speed limit is 65 miles an hour. Both the truck and myself  are driving at 70 miles an hour.  I have to speed up to about  80 miles an hour to overtake the truck quickly. Why do I need to do that?

A: so you can see the road better if you are not behind a huge truck!

Me: hmmm. The truck is not bothering me.

Then , back in 2017, when I started spending  six whole months in India , I rode  pillion on Ashok’s motorbike ! Oh the horror! The travesty!

He drives on the left  side of the road only when there is no traffic. If the road is busy, he is driving somewhere on the right of the middle of the road because he is always   overtaking (or planning to overtake) the car or truck or bus in front of him.  So 80% of the time he is on the wrong side, on a collision course with the oncoming traffic and risking a sideswipe with whatever vehicle he is overtaking. Oh yes, sometimes overtaking a vehicle on the right is not possible,  so he immediately  overtakes on the left, risking collision with pedestrians, bicycles, motorized carts, three-wheelers  etc. who do not expect him to come from behind (because they are on their side of the street, minding their own business)

When  Ashok needs to actually take a right turn, the monster reveals himself – he just takes a right turn! – no signal,  no waiting for the oncoming traffic, and he enters the road on the right side while driving on the right side (the illegal side), sometimes at a breakneck speed, honking his horn incessantly. I have seen him taking a right turn in front of  three   cars driving abreast, coming from the other side,  along with two  motor bikes. He cleared the last  motor bike by about one foot!

When he is not overtaking, he is riding abreast with two or three other two-wheelers in a tight space, with inches between them and at a great risk of side-swiping and crashing.

Of course, two wheeler vehicles became popular in India because of their maneuverability on crowded streets and ability to weave through traffic. To illustrate this, Ashok took me to visit my lawyer’s house through a  busy market street not wide enough for cars. He told me that going through the main road will take about one hour. Through the market, he rode merrily, inches from the veggie  and fruit sellers sitting on the street, my feet dangling from his bike passing about six inches away from some fishmonger’s  knives,  sometimes six inches from another bike’s red hot  exhaust. Horns were being blown by all the bikes present,  terrorizing the housewives shopping , dogs were running in fright. On the one hand,  I was wanting to shrink myself to a human of about one foot in size to escape serious injury, on the other hand I was mesmerized at his unbelievable driving skills, weaving,  braking, honking and  creating a mayhem on that narrow street full of people, but managing not to hit a single soul or a single piece of fruit.

“There” said Ashok when we arrived at our destination “we saved twenty minutes. You are OK, aren’t you?” I was so far from being OK that all I could manage was to nod my head and he took it as a sign of approval.

There is a basic lack of apprehension on the part of Indian drivers like Ashok,  you get a blank stare , a sense of total disbelief when you ask some questions.  Ashok takes a very small alley near his house to go home from our place, the alley is four feet wide, just enough for a full sized bike to fit in – it saves him about 25 seconds, He told me a few times “Take this great shortcut on your bicycle when you visit us, it will save you time’” After going through it the first time, I politely refused , telling him “I am not taking that alley. Do you know little children play there? Sometimes old people walk there as well”. 

His response was a  an incredulous “So?” meaning  “why are you telling me this ? There is no chance in hell I am going to hit someone in the alley. I am Ashok, the veteran bike rider.”  I did not tell him that there is a beautiful young lady that lives  close to my house – one of her eyes is gone. When she was a little girl, she shot out into the empty street and a bike came out of nowhere and  hit her, the corner handle  pierced  her eye.   Of course the rider was not our great Ashok, so it is not relevant, is it?

Yes, I told him once, when he  was with his wife, myself and another friend. His wife, who hesitates to ride pillion on his bike, asked me what sort of a driver he was.

“A good driver, but he violates 100% of the traffic laws 100% of the time” I replied, causing ripples of laughter all around. Next time though I was with Ashok alone, and I told him the same thing. I could see he was deeply hurt and seriously offended. With a wry grin he told me “ I never had an accident in forty years”

“That’s great”, I said “I am glad to hear that”.

(No Accident? You freaking kidding me? He has accidents everyday!! His arms and legs have lacerations and bruises all the time, his bike parts are being broken and replaced all the time – How the hell do you explain that? Of course he has not been hospitalized with major  trauma yet – what a freaking miracle!!)

What is remarkable with Indian drivers is their amazing skills at balancing, weaving, anticipating, calculating and  assorted other things that are needed for driving both cars and motorbikes.  Oh, the drivers also seem to have three or four pairs of eyes also, because they can always see who is about to crash into them  from behind or from the sides, or if there is enough room on the road surface for their vehicle to squeeze through,  or if their rear tire is about six inches away from someone else’s tire or foot, so its OK to proceed normally!! If, on a scale of one to 100, drivers in USA are about 50 on average, drivers like Ashok are about 96 at their skill level!

Not all drivers are crazy like Ashok, there are 75% drivers that are equally or less crazy, and 35% more crazy than him. Well, that adds up to 110%. Because, at a given point the extra 10%  “more crazy” drivers are writhing in pain in the hospitals, or comatose from head trauma, or going to the cremation ground with their grieving family members – at least they are off the streets, finally!

 In the above rambling, I have actually under-reported Ashok’s driving  habits. In the second part, I will describe my venture into riding a bicycle in Indian streets and my investigation into the causes for this unusual phenomenon of traffic in India.

Why am I freaking out about corruption in India?

Corruption exists everywhere in the world, so why does it freak me out in India?

Because it is pervasive, it is in your face, and people kind of shrug off preposterous acts performed by others,

I am ready to donate about 2000 dollars to any educational institution in India on the spot, but have found no takers for the last four years!! I will write in detail about my experience with my own school later. Overall, I found that there are four types of schools

a. schools owned and run by the government. They do not accept charity

b. Government -sponsored schools – a vast majority of schools fall in this category including my old high school. They receive government funding but are also autonomous.. Technically, they can receive charity. But most of the time, the teachers are already misappropriating government funds, so the external charity will reveal the internal corruption. Let’s say the government has given funds for ten computers, and only five have been purchased. Now if I donate money for ten additional computers, the cat will be out of the bag and some people will be in big trouble!!

c. “Charitable” private non-profit Schools : sounds like an oxymoron. These accept “donations” from parents before their children are admitted . Part of the donations are used to provide scholarships to poor students,, and the major part is appropriated by the owner and his network . Serious accounting problems persist here in order to exhibit the non-profit status. Some of these schools actually provide high quality education and their owners seem so happy to be able to provide such valuable service to the society (sarcasm!)

d. Finally a small number of private schools exist primarily in remote villages, and some of those are not controlled by political parties. I am looking for one for the last few years.

I am willing to donate 1000 dollars to charity every month, but it is not possible in India. Of course, you can dump your money to temples or large foundations, but I do not want to do that. Over time I found that most NGO’s steal either some or all of your money! On the other hand, India does not have the abject poverty that was all around till the 1980’s. We do not see beggars howling on the streets, or people scrounging for food on the side of the streets or hordes of beggars at the bus stations or tram depots – a common sight when I was around in the 70’s. So, I am slowly finding out needy people and giving them money , but it takes time and patience. Like everywhere else in the world, there are scammers galore.

A cousin and his family, and another cousin’s son have built their livelihoods on corruption, so I don’t interact with them any more – that’s two out of four cousins’ families that live in Kolkata. I do not have any other surviving relatives in kolkata any longer, except maybe second cousins and their families. My mother and sister have passed away.

Several people that I met and that turned out to be friendly, cultured and well intentioned individuals revealed to have their livelihoods entirely based on corrupt practices , so I do not hang out with them any longer.

It is strange that these individuals, including my cousins’ families are baffled by my aloofness and possibly take it as a sign of my arrogance and /or early dementia!!

My good friend’s elderly father, a wonderful lonely old man, wants to hang out with me, but I am not going to, because several years ago my good friend raped a woman in his own home when I was present there. ( I have no conclusive evidence of this , so I just scream silently about this now and then)

So it is not like – “politicians in Washington are corrupt, or that Wall street managers engage in corrupt insider trading – and they are 1500 miles away from my little cocoon in Lawrence, Kansas” , it is corruption in your face in India!!

Oh, I am not miserable, I have a lot of good friends in Kolkata to hang out with. But it has become my mission to point out how corruption is pervasive and expensive for the Indian society in a way that I never anticipated.

And no, I am not going back to USA any time soon! Food is good here, and my retirement funds go a long way, and I love the people I do hang out with.

Edit: I did not want to appear presumptuous in the above post. It is just that I do not have any inheritance motive, and very limited current expenditures and needs. So I just want to give away about 33% of my monthly income to charity – that comes to about $1000 a month. I don’t need it – in USA it will be easy to find people and organizations who will make good use of it. So far, in India, I am finding it hard to give it to non-corrupt people. I have succeeded in finding some people who will use the money, but much more remains to be done. I have no motive of showing off , or being obnoxious.